Kanaaleilanden – net een detective

 

jersey

 

Longread over de Kanaaleilanden Guersey, Jersey, Herm en Sark
Reistijd: juli 2019
Aantal woorden: 1400
Leestijd: 12 minuten

Tekst en beeld: Sybylle Kroon

 

Ze liggen in de oksel van Normandië en Bretagne: de Kanaaleilanden. Hoewel de eilanden geografisch in het zicht van Frankrijk liggen, zijn ze toch echt Brits Kroonbezit. Reis&Co-redacteur Sybylle Kroon reisde af naar de eilanden Guernsey, Jersey, Herm en Sark en dacht dat ze in een Engelse detective beland was. Maar dan zonder moord.

Pittoresk en groen

De flamboyante hoteleigenaresse, de mysterieuze tuinman, de Franse ober of de grumpy winkelier: ik dacht dat dit soort karakters uit Engelse detectives zoals Midsummer Murders fictief waren. Maar sinds mijn bezoek aan de eilanden Guernsey, Herm en Sark weet ik: ze bestaan écht. Soms lijkt het net of ik op een filmset beland ben, maar dan met echte mensen, geen figuranten. Ook de setting is precies hetzelfde als op tv: pittoreske dorpjes met oude cafés, authentieke huizen, omringd met bloemrijke tuinen in een weelderig, groen landschap.

Auto’s verboden

Neem Elizabeth Perree. Ze is eigenaresse van La Sablonnerie op het Kanaaleiland Sark, gehuisvest in een zestiende-eeuwse boerderij. Het hotel met restaurant ligt verscholen tussen het weelderige groen op dit mini-eilandje voor de kust van Guernsey, waar je alleen per boot kunt komen. Ze verwelkomt elke gast met dezelfde grandeur, in fraaie kleding, op hoge hakken en met een lange stola over haar schouders gedrapeerd. Op de zandpad naast het hotelletje begroet ze haar broer, die net een paar gasten met zijn trekker heeft afgeleverd. Het is het enige gemotoriseerde verkeer op Sark: auto’s zijn verboden. Trekkers eigenlijk ook, maar op dit eiland zonder politie worden die getolereerd. Toch lopen we in La Sablonnerie tegen een heuse detective aan: Tom Barnaby uit Midsummer Murders. Niet in dienst trouwens: acteur John Nettles is een goede vriend van Elizabeth Perree, vandaar.

 

Mysteries op Sark

Hoewel het eiland vanaf de boot eruit zag als een grote steenpuist, blijkt Sark verrassend groen en bloemrijk te zijn. Het eiland bestaat uit twee delen: Sark en Little Sark. Ze worden verbonden door een smalle, natuurlijke brug, La Coupée. Op onze gehuurde fietsen rijden we door een afwisselend landschap. We stoppen bij de Seigneurie waar we een afspraak hebben met een tuinman. Om geheimzinnige redenen blijkt hij opeens te zijn verdwenen, dus we verkennen de fraai aangelegde tuin en omgeving rondom het landgoed op eigen gelegenheid. Het wordt nog mysterieuzer wanneer we even later bovenop een klif langs de kust een mini-uitvoering van Stone Henge vinden. Een magische plek waar we een tijdje van de serene rust, de oneindige ruimte en het uitzicht over zee genieten.

 

‘Caribisch’ strand

Dachten we dat Sark al bijzonder was omdat er geen auto’s mochten rijden, het buureiland Herm – op twintig minuten varen vanaf Guernsey – maakt het nog ‘bonter’. Op dit mini-eilandje van 2,5 bij 1 kilometer zijn niet alleen auto’s maar ook fietsen verboden. Je komt hooguit een boer op een quad of een local met paard en wagen tegen. We volgen het wandelpad dat langs de kust loopt en speuren naar papegaaiduikers. Die bijzondere vogels komen hier voor. Ze genieten net als ons van het uitzicht over zee, de grillige kust met grotten en het groene eiland. Aan de noord- en westkust komen we langs zandstranden zo wit en zeewater zo helder, dat we ons op een Caribisch eiland wanen. Na een paar uur wandelen zijn we rond. Op het terras van een van de weinige uitspanningen worden we bediend door een ober met een zalig Frans accent die zo clumsy is dat het erop lijkt dat we weer op een filmset zijn beland.

 

kanaaleilanden sark

Links rijden op de Kanaaleilanden – even wennen

Weer terug op Guernsey is de huurauto geen overbodig luxe. Het is even wennen aan links rijden, maar om het hele eiland te zien, heb je een auto én een paar dagen wel nodig. Anders hadden we de mooiste zonsondergang van het eiland, op het strand van Cobo, gemist. Hadden we nooit geweten dat er prehistorische overblijfselen bij Le Creux ès Faïes te zien waren. En waren we niet langs Saint Andrew met zijn Little Chapel gekomen. Dit mini-kerkje is opgebouwd uit een bonte verzameling schelpen, stenen en scherven. In de hoofdstad Saint Peter Port doen we alles lopend. We wandelen langs de haven, verbazen ons over het grote verschil tussen eb en vloed (tot wel elf meter!) en dolen door het oude centrum van de stad met zijn geplaveide straten, luxe winkels en talloze trappen. Een van die trappen brengt ons bij Hauteville House, waar we een afspraak hebben. Hier woonde de negentiende-eeuwse schrijver-dichter Victor Hugo tijdens zijn ballingschap. Na het zien van zijn huis overheerst maar een gevoel: we zijn impressed.

Happy end, big smile

We waren even vergeten dat we in een Engelse detective beland waren, totdat we een winkel binnen liepen waar ze de beroemde Guernsey-tomaten verkopen. Praktisch alle locals die we tot dan toe waren tegengekomen, waren vriendelijk en voorzien van die typisch Engelse, onderkoelde humor. Deze grumpy verkoper maakt het echter zo bont, dat we er om moesten grinniken. Dat vond hij not funny. Resoluut werkte hij ons de winkel uit en draaide het bordje op ‘Closed’. En wat doe je dan, als je in Engeland bent? Dan los je het op met ‘tea’. We ploffen neer in een café met uitzicht op zee en bestellen een cream tea – met ovenverse scones, clotted cream en jam. Net zoals bij Engelse detectives, eindigt ook ons bezoek aan Guernsey met een big smile.

Paradijselijk landschap

Zestig kilometer verderop ligt Jersey, het grootste Kanaaleiland. Hoewel: groot: het is maar tien bij twaalf kilometer, vergelijkbaar met Texel in het klein of Terschelling in het groot. Het eiland profiteert – net als de andere Kanaaleilanden – van de warme golfstroom en dat zorgt voor een aangenaam klimaat. Voeg daaraan toe het paradijselijke landschap van Jersey, met zijn glooiende heuvels, wijngaarden, bloemrijke weilanden, lavendelvelden, mooie baaien en woeste kliffen, en je begrijpt waarom vooral natuurliefhebbers en wandelaars het eiland met een bezoek vereren.

Eb en vloed bij Kanaaleilanden

Het grote verschil tussen eb en vloed – tussen de zeven en elf meter – geeft de kust van Jersey twee gezichten. Bij vloed is het vooral water wat je ziet, met hier en daar een paar rotsjes die boven het water uitsteken. Bij eb lijkt er een totaal andere wereld zich te openbaren. Een soort maandlandschap waar her en der bootjes gestrand zijn. Als je langs de zuid- en westkust met zandstranden wandelt, zie je je uitzicht langzaam maar zeker veranderen. Bij laag water kun je ‘wad’lopend naar Seymour Tower, een ruim tweehonderd jaar oude verdedigingstoren die twee kilometer uit de kust van Jersey ligt.

Groene kust

Jersey heeft niet alleen zandstranden: in het noorden van het eiland is de kust ruiger en groener. Het wandelpad over de rotsen langs de noordkust voert je dan ook door bossen en eindeloze velden vol manshoge varens. Neem af en toe de tijd om om je heen te kijken, want zo hoog boven de zee is het uitzicht vaak fenomenaal. Doordat dit pad wat ruiger is, kom je ook niet veel mensen tegen. Uitrusten doe je in de dorpjes die je onderweg tegenkomt. Bestel vooral een ijsje gemaakt van de romige melk van de Jersey-koe.

 

kanaaleilanden jersey

Stukje Frankrijk

Net als je je in Engeland waant, wandel je in het zuidwesten van Jersey een typisch Frans landschap binnen. Je ruikt het al van verre: lavendel. Rondom de Lavender Farm verleiden velden vol lavendel wandelaars met hun verfijnde geur. Als je dan ook nog even de schommel pakt die tussen de lavendelvelden staat, wervelen de subtiele geuren letterlijk om je heen. Ook elders op Jersey zie je veel paars/blauwe bloemen. In bermen en tuinen vind je talloze hortensia’s en agapanthussen. De Lavender Farm is niet het enige stukje Frankrijk op Jersey. Er zijn ook wijngaarden waar je al wandelend over het eiland langs komt.

 

kanaaleilanden jersey

Mix van culturen

Ook al voelt het landschap op de Kanaaleilanden soms eerder Frans dan Engels aan, je bent wel degelijk in Engeland. Dat merk je aan de mensen, aan de taal, aan het verkeer en aan het eten. Je ontbijt met toast & tea, luncht met fish & chips en bestelt typisch Engelse zoetigheden zoals Bakewell tart en scones bij je cream tea. De Kanaaleilanden vormen een prettige mix van culturen, een aangename mengelmoes van ouderwetse Engelse gastvrijheid en Franse joie de vivre.

Informatie over de Kanaaleilanden Guernsey en Jersey

kanaaleilanden herm

 

Guernsey
Hoofdstad: Saint Peter Port
Grootte: 78 km2
Aantal bewoners: 65.000
Valuta: Britse pond en Guernsey pond
Taal: Engels
Klimaat: mild zeeklimaat
Guernsey –  Herm: 20 minuten varen
Guernsey – Sark: 55 minuten varen

 

Jersey
Hoofdstad: Saint Helier
Grootte: 120 km2
Aantal bewoners: 100.000
Valuta: Jersey pond en Britse pond
Taal: Engels en Frans
Klimaat: mild zeeklimaat

 

 

 

 

 

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