Oman: schoonheid waar je stil van wordt

 

Het is stil. Zo stil dat je een kevertje hoort kruipen. Het is donker. Zo donker dat de Melkweg schaduwen werpt. Ik zit midden in de nacht voor een tent in de Sharqiyah-woestijn in Oman. Een land waar schoonheid lijkt te zijn uitgevonden.

 

oman sybylle

 

Dit artikel is verschenen in MGZN #2

Tekst en beeld: Sybylle Kroon

Honderden kleuren oranje

Vlak voor zonsondergang zijn we na een paar uur hobbelen met een fourwheeldrive over de ‘desert highway’ bij het tentenkamp aangekomen. Want die zonsondergang is er eentje die je niet mag missen. De zon zelf is niet zo spectaculair. Wel het licht dat dit hemellichaam verspreidt over de eindeloze woestijnduinen. Een schilderpalet met rood, bruin en geel tovert honderden kleuren oranje om je heen. De schoonheid van dit fenomeen is nauwelijks in beeld of woord over te brengen. Ik sla deze ervaring op in mijn geheugen onder het mapje ‘onvergetelijk’ en koester de foto die mij een beetje terugbrengt naar dit moment.

Wake-upcall van vogels

Niet alleen de woestijn doet je nietig voelen. Ook ’s nachts onder de immense sterrenhemel kan ik alleen maar respect hebben voor het universum dat me omringt. Je mist maar één ding hier. En dat is een glas wijn. En internet. Maar eigenlijk mis ik dat niet. Het is prima zo. Als het langzaam aan weer licht wordt, begint een vogeltje te fluiten. En nog een. En nog een. Ze wonen in de schaarse bomen die hier op het tentenkamp staan. Na een paar minuten waaiert het getjilp van tientallen vogels door de woestijn. Een mooiere wake-upcall kan ik me niet wensen.

 

oman tent in woestijn

 

Dorpjes in camouflagekleuren

Oman is een land dat voor een groot deel uit woestijn en gebergte bestaat. Bergen die nergens hetzelfde eruitzien en daardoor nooit vervelen. Tussen al die bergtoppen liggen bijzondere dorpjes in camouflagekleuren in de brandende zon te slapen. Tijdens de roadtrip door Oman stappen we uit bij het dorpje Birkat Al Mouz, de ‘bananen-oase’. Net als in andere oases leeft men hier van de bananen-, dadel-, papaya- en mangoteelt. Even verderop wijst gids Saqer naar het eeuwenoude dorpje Al Hamra, zo genoemd vanwege de rode huisjes die er nog steeds staan maar al lang niet meer bewoond zijn.

 

Vanaf Al Hambra slingeren we de bergen in naar boven totdat we aankomen in Misfat. Ook in dit bergdorp lijkt de tijd te hebben stilgestaan. Een groot deel van het dorp is verlaten en het wandelpad gaat dwars door de vervallen huizen heen. Ik groet een paar hikers die dit gebied met immense rotsformaties en canyons verkennen. Ze zijn op zoek naar het Misfah Old House, een eenvoudig pension met acht kamers waar je als hiker neerstrijkt voor verkoeling, een goed maal en een stevig bed. Ik kon ze de weg wijzen, want we hadden er net een heerlijke lunch verorberd.

Natuurlijk zwembad

oman wadi

 

De zon in Oman schijnt onbarmhartig. Het is dan ook een van de zonnigste en droogste landen ter wereld. In de zomermaanden komt de temperatuur regelmatig boven de veertig en soms vijftig graden, ’s winters schommelt het rond de dertig graden. Geen wonder dat locals en reizigers het water opzoeken. Ook ik verwelkom de koelte bij Wadi Bani Khalid, een natuurlijk zwembad tussen de bergen. Het water komt uit de rotsen en de bergen en belandt uiteindelijk via grotten, canyons en watervallen in deze wonderschone riviervallei. Bewoners uit de vijfentwintig omringende dorpen komen hier naartoe om op vrije dagen te zwemmen, te picknicken, vrienden te ontmoeten of de Perzische tapijten eens goed te boenen. Ik dompel me even onder in deze verkoelende oase tussen de warme bergen en geniet in stilte van de adembenemende omgeving.

Fjorden van Oman

Naast woestijn en bergen heeft Oman een 1700 kilometer lange kustlijn met baaien, stranden, kliffen én fjorden. Voor de fjorden moet je naar een enclave van Oman, de regio Musandam. Dat ligt een paar honderd kilometer noordelijker, omringd door de Verenigde Arabische Emiraten. Het landschap is hier anders dan in de rest van Oman. De bergmassieven doemen rechtstreeks uit zee op en lijken op de fjorden in Noorwegen, maar dan zonder ijs. We stappen op een dhow, een authentieke boot die je veel in deze regio’s ziet, voor een cruise langs de kust. We worden begeleid door honderden aalschovers die in lange formaties vlak boven het water langs de boot scheren.

Dat is al een bijzondere ervaring, maar het mooiste moet nog komen. Dolfijnen. Dhow-kapitein Illais en gids Ismail spotten ze al snel. Het duurt een paar minuten, maar daar zijn ze, koppeltjes dolfijnen zwemmen en duikelen met de boot mee. Ismail en Illais klappen in hun handen, zo verleiden ze de dolfijnen om bij de boot te blijven. Na het speelkwartier haken de dolfijnen af. Ismail gooit het anker in een baai tussen de fjorden uit. Nu mogen wij in het water spelen. Ik duik in het kristalheldere water in de Golf van Oman. Snorkelend ontdek ik dat de onderwaterwereld al net zo mooi is als de bovenwaterwereld.

Maanlandschap

Dat in Musandam miljoenen jaren lang immens natuurgeweld is geweest, blijkt tijdens de mountain-safari die we maken naar de top van de tweeduizend meter hoge berg Jebal Harim. De fourwheeldrive is geen overbodige luxe als ik zo de weg en vooral de diepe ravijnen waar we langs scheren, bekijk. We komen langs een wadi, waar geiten doodgemoedereerd de rotsen beklimmen en naar je toe komen voor een bananenschil of stukje appel. Op de groene hoogvlakte worden groente en dadels gekweekt en geiten gehouden.

 

oman musandan

 

Een half uur hobbelen hoger komen we uit op de maan. Een landschap dat buitenaards lijkt en dat mijn voorstellingsvermogen te boven gaat. Ik sta in een maandlandschap dat ooit, zo’n 250 miljoen jaar geleden, zee was. Overal om me heen liggen enorme stenen waarin fossielen van vissen en schelpen te zien zijn. Verder dan 1600 meter hoogte komen we niet. Op de top van Jabel Hari is een radarpost en dat is verboden terrein. Maar het uitzicht vanaf het uitkijkpunt waar we beland zijn, biedt een panorama dat me met ontzag vervult. Ik ben er weer stil van.

EN DAN HEEFT OMAN OOK DIT NOG…

Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque Muscat

Oman is een overwegend islamitisch land. Overal vind je moskeeën, de grootste (en ongetwijfeld mooiste) staat in de hoofdstad Muscat: de Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque. Als toerist mag je deze moskee buiten gebedsuren bezoeken. Mannen en vrouwen moeten bedekkende kleding dragen en vrouwen dienen gesluierd te zijn. Wie niet conform de dresscode is, kan bij de ingang sluiers en andere bedekkende kleding kopen. Op de website maak je een virtuele tour door deze stijlvolle moskee.

 

oman sybylle bij moskee

oman moskee

 

Dhows

De stad Sur ligt aan de kust. Vroeger een belangrijke havenstad waar veel (slaven)handel werd gedreven. Tegenwoordig staat Sur vooral bekend om de twee werven waar nog dhows worden gebouwd. Van origine  waren dit handelsschepen, nu worden ze ingezet voor minicruises of worden ze – voor veel geld – verkocht aan particulieren. In Sur is een openluchtmuseum waar je een dhow en andere boten van dichtbij kunt bekijken.

 

Schildpadden kijken

De Golf van Oman is een paradijs voor zeeschildpadden. Er komen vijf soorten voor, de meest voorkomende is de groene schildpad. Vanuit het Ras al Jinz Turtle Reserve – zo’n vijftig kilometer ten zuiden van Sur – worden ‘s avonds en ‘s nachts excursies naar het strand georganiseerd, waar de vrouwtjesschildpadden eieren leggen. Je overnacht in het hotel of in luxe ecotenten vlakbij de kust.

FACTS & FIGURES OMAN

Aantal inwoners: 4 miljoen

Hoofdstad: Muscat

Staatsvorm: Sultanaat

Oppervlakte 309.000 km2 (7x Nederland)

Valuta: Omaanse Rial (OMR)

Klimaat: subtropisch en woestijnklimaat

Gemiddelde temperatuur: 27 graden (wintermaanden) tot 40 graden (zomermaanden)

 

 

 

9.574 Replies to “Oman: schoonheid waar je stil van wordt”

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