Op safari door Fins Lapland

 

fins lapland

 

Artikel over Fins Lapland
Reistijd: maart 2016
Aantal woorden: 1200
Leestijd: 10 minuten

Tekst en beeld: Sybylle Kroon

 

Een reis door winters Fins Lapland is een trip door het land van de Sami, husky’s, rendieren, elanden, meren, bomen, bessen, noorderlicht en sneeuw, heel veel sneeuw. Om Lapland goed te kunnen ontdekken, trek je een warm pak aan, stap je op een sneeuwscooter of slee en ga je op safari.

Balsem voor je longen

Nooit gedacht dat ik ooit nog eens hondenpoep zou gaan waarderen. En toch gebeurde dat tijdens een huskysafari in de buurt van Äkäslompolo, hoog boven de poolcirkel in Finland. Tijdens zo’n safari sta of zit je in een slee achter een roedel husky’s. Die willen maar één ding: rennen. Maar zoals dat wel vaker bij honden gebeurt, zodra ze in beweging komen, roept moeder natuur. Dus in het begin van de huskysafari sta je om de haverklap stil omdat er een poepje moet worden gedaan. En daar zit of sta jij dan net achter, eerste rang. De geur van hondenpoep in de zuivere Finse lucht is balsem voor je longen, als je het vergelijkt met de lucht die we een dag eerder tijdens een noorderlichtsafari opsnoven.

Gemotoriseerd rendier

Om het noorderlicht te kunnen zien, reisden we per slee achter een sneeuwscooter naar een locatie waar dit bijzondere natuurverschijnsel het best te aanschouwen was. Sneeuwscooters zijn hele normale vervoersmiddelen in Lapland en brengen je op plaatsen waar je met de auto niet kunt komen, sterker nog: waar niet eens wegen zijn. Zoals wij onze fietspaden hebben, hebben ze in Lapland sneeuwscooterpaden. Een uur lang werden we voortgetrokken door zo’n gemotoriseerd rendier, op weg naar dé noorderlichtlocatie. Een uur lang zit je dan ook in de stank van de uitlaatgassen. Geen pretje maar gelukkig is de beloning groots: een prachtige lichtshow aan het firmament – als je geluk hebt, want het noorderlicht laat zich niet altijd zien. Als we weer op jacht gaan naar het noorderlicht, dan niet weer áchter een scooter, maar erop.

Astronautenpak

 

Het is koud in Lapland. Op een normale winterdag is het met gemak -20 of -30 graden. Stap je op een sneeuwscooter of zit je een tijd stil op een slee achter husky’s, rendieren of gemotoriseerde exemplaren, dan is het geen slecht idee om tijdens een safari gebruik te maken van de pakken die in slagorde klaar hangen bij de safari-organisatie. Met bijpassende schoenen, handschoenen en helm zie je eruit als een astronaut, maar alles beter dan bevroren ledematen. Bepaalde gebieden in Lapland lijken net een buitenaards landschap, dus qua outfit past dat prima. Nog een beetje onwennig in het grote pak stappen we niet al te elegant op een sneeuwscooter voor de volgende safari.

Sneeuwscooter = snelheidsmonster

Halverwege de safari wordt gepauzeerd bij een kota, een Laplandse hut midden in de natuur, met als enige voorziening een haardvuur. De gidsen hebben allerlei lekkernijen meegenomen die boven het vuur kunnen worden opgewarmd. Zo bleken mijn passagier en ik onwetend de vervoerders te zijn van een enorme pan met de fameuze Lapse zalmsoep – die stond stevig vastgesnoerd in een grote zak achterop de sneeuwscooter. Wat overigens achteraf een goed excuus was voor onze lage gemiddelde snelheid. Want het kan best heftig zijn, het besturen van zo’n snelheidsmonster: een beetje sneeuwscooter gaat honderd kilometer per uur. Niet zo verwonderlijk dus dat je een rijbewijs moet hebben, bij je moet dragen en nuchter moet zijn. Zo ondervonden we dat even later tijdens een alcohol- en rijbewijscontrole. In de middle of nowhere was een politiemacht neergestreken om alle voorbijgangers aan te houden en te controleren.

 

 

Terug naar de soep. Die werd boven het vuur opgewarmd en uit een andere zak toverden de gidsen broodjes, houten kommen en lepels. De warme soep doet de toch wat verkleumde mens goed. Tot besluit nog een kuksa warm bessensap, ook een traditie hier in Lapland. De warme drank wordt gedronken uit een houten beker, de kuksa.

Megabessen in Fins Lapland

’s Zomers groeien in de bossen, op de heide en het veen van Lapland allerlei soorten bessen, waaronder de cranberry en de beroemde oranje cloudberry oftewel bergbraam. Ze groeien in de zomer tot megaproporties, omdat de zon een paar weken niet ondergaat. Je mag overal vrij plukken en dat doen de Lappen dan ook massaal. Van de bessen wordt van alles en nog wat gemaakt, onder meer bessensap. Al sinds mensenheugenis wordt het sap gebruikt om ziektes die ontstaan door een gebrek aan vitamine C in de winter het hoofd te kunnen bieden. Ook wij kunnen er na twee dampende kuksa’s weer tegenaan.

Hoogvlaktes in een wit landschap

Met al die sneeuw is het lastig lopen en fietsen, vandaar dat je ook veel mensen op ski’s ziet. Langlaufend naar je werk of school, dat kan in Lapland. Ook als toerist kun je hier in dit oogverblindende witte landschap urenlang laufen. Echte skiliefhebbers reizen af naar een van de hoogvlaktes die Fins Lapland rijk is, zoals bij Levi, Ruka, Ylläs en Äkäslompolo. Hoge bergen zijn hier niet, bij 1000 meter houdt het wel op, maar pistes des te meer. Ideaal dus voor mensen die beginnend skiër zijn. Toch kan ook de routinier hier aan zijn trekken komen. Er zijn ook zwarte pistes, alleen niet zo lang en zo groot als in de Alpen. En ook de skiresorts doen niet onder aan hun evenknies in de Alpen.

 

fins lapland

 

Acht seizoenen in Lapland

Lapland wordt wel het land van de acht seizoenen genoemd. Niet verwonderlijk: de temperatuur in de winter en zomer verschilt enorm: het kan hier in de winter -30 worden en in de +30. Tussen elk seizoen in, is een periode waarbij de temperatuur al aanvoelt als het volgende seizoen, maar als je om je heen kijkt, nog niet veel veranderd is. Ook de midzomer en midwinter zijn bijzondere fenomenen. In de winter komt de zon gedurende een paar weken niet op. In de zomer gaat de zon een paar weken niet onder, hij blijft net boven de horizon steken. Het licht is misschien wel het meest unieke fenomeen in Lapland.

Gekleurde vossenstaarten

Tijdens de midwinter – als de zon niet opkomt – is de hemel overdag niet pikzwart, maar kleurt dieppaars en donkeroranje. En ’s nachts kun je een van de meest spectaculaire lichtshows die er bestaan, aanschouwen: het noorderlicht. Moet je wel geluk hebben, want dit natuurverschijnsel manifesteert zich alleen als alle omstandigheden perfect zijn. En dus moet je op jacht naar het noorderlicht, op een sneeuwscooter, met husky’s, rendieren of gewoon met jezelf. Een safaritocht door het donkere, verstilde Lapse sneeuwlandschap, langs de duizenden bomen en de bevroren meren en moerassen. Met als beloning een hemel vol gekleurde vossenstaarten, volgens de overlevering in Fins Lapland.

Over vossenstaarten gesproken….

Ik schreef een blog over het fenomeen bont in Fins Lapland.

Deze video maakte ik over mijn reis door Fins Lapland.

Achtergrondinformatie Fins Lapland

Finland wordt ook wel het land van de duizend meren genoemd. Finnen zelf houden het erop dat het veel meer zijn: zo rond de 220.000. Lapland is een regio die zich uitstrekt over het noorden van Noorwegen, Zweden, Finland en Rusland. De bewoners van Lapland zijn de Sami, een van oorsprong nomadisch volk.

 

noordpoolcirkel rovaniemi fins lapland

De Kerstman woont bij Rovaniemi, in Santa Claus Village – het dorp ligt precies op de poolcirkel. Vanuit de hele wereld komen toeristen hier naartoe om de Kerstman te ontmoeten of te overnachten in Snowman World, een ijshotel.

 

arktikum in fins lapland

In Rovaniemi staat het imposante wetenschapsmuseum Arktikum, waar je alles kunt vinden over de geologie, geschiedenis en ontwikkeling van Lapland en de Sami.

 

In Kittilä kun je een bezoek brengen aan Snow Village, hier kun je slapen in een ijshotel en eten bij een restaurant dat helemaal van ijs is gemaakt.

 

fins lapland

 

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