Trentino: tussen kunst en koeien

 

zicht op trentino

 

Artikel en blog over Trentino, Italië
Reistijd: juni 2016
Aantal woorden: 1000
Leestijd: 8 minuten

Tekst en beeld: Sybylle Kroon

 

Voorzichtig stap ik door het heuvelachtige weiland, de verse vlaaien angstvallig vermijdend. Op zoek naar Golosa, ‘mijn’ Italiaanse koe die ik geadopteerd heb. Ze is het leukste souvenir van mijn reis door de Noord-Italiaanse regio Trentino.

Adoptiebewijs

Golosa mee naar huis nemen, dat zal niet gaan. Ze blijft lekker herkauwen met haar vriendinnen op de grazige weilanden rondom boerderij Malga Fratte in de buurt van het stadje Levico Therme. Als adoptiebewijs krijg ik haar paspoort mee*. En we worden door boer Ferruccio Cetto en zijn vrouw op een boerenlunch op de boerderij getrakteerd. Alles van eigen koe en alles ultravers, met als culinair hoogtepunt de Vezzenakaas. Een smakelijke manier om kennis te maken met het boerenleven in Trentino.

Paden met een geschiedenis

wandelpad trentino

 

De boerderij van boer Ferruccio staat op de hoogvlakte van Vezzena in het gebied Valsugana, vlakbij de Pizzo di Levico. Bovenop deze berg heb je een fantastisch uitzicht over Valsugana. Dat willen we natuurlijk met eigen ogen zien, dus samen met gids Sytske hiken we naar de top. Het is een route door weilanden en bossen, over smalle paadjes en robuuste wegen met een geschiedenis. Hier hakten tijdens de Eerste Wereldoorlog honderden Russische krijgsgevangen een weg naar boven, naar een – nu vervallen – fort. Ruim honderd jaar later lopen wij over deze weg naar de top.

Daar aangekomen kijken we onze ogen uit. In de verte zien we de pieken van de Dolomieten. Tussen het omringende bergachtig landschap liggen allerlei dorpjes en twee meren, Lago di Lévico en Lago di Caldonazzo, te schitteren. Hoe langer je kijkt, hoe meer je ziet. Ik kan hier uren blijven turen, maar we gaan weer verder. Want er is zoveel meer te zien en te doen in Trentino.

Rondje Lago di Ledro

Trentino is een paradijs voor actievelingen en kampeerders die van de natuur en het water willen genieten maar niet in de drukte willen zitten. Met al die meren is Trentino ook een walhalla voor watersporters. Zeilen, surfen, kanoën, waterfietsen, suppen: je kunt hier van alles doen. Aardige bijkomstigheid is dat het er minder toeristisch en dus een stuk rustiger is dan bij het nabijgelegen Gardameer. Naast watersporten, canyoning en hiken kun je in Trentino ook fantastisch fietsen en wandelen.

We pakken de fiets en doen een ‘rondje’ om het Lago di Ledro. We komen van alles tegen. Paalwoningen uit de bronstijd, een dorpje waar ooit een reus woonde, een kraan uit de rotsen waar je vers bergwater kunt tappen, een zee van waterlelies, een waterval bij Gorg d’Abiss. We strijken neer bij een typisch Trentinoiaans restaurant. ‘Geen pizza, geen spaghetti’, staat er uitnodigend op het bord. Heerlijk gegeten.

Kunst in de natuur van Trentino

art trentino

 

Trentino bestaat uit verschillende gebieden die elk hun eigen naam hebben, zoals Valsugana, Valle di Ledro en Val di Sella. In de ‘vallei van Sella’ vind je Arte Sella, een openluchttentoonstelling met natuurlijke kunst. Gids Giacomo leidt ons langs de imposante en wonderbaarlijke kunstwerken van natuurlijke materialen, ontworpen en gemaakt door kunstenaars en architecten vanuit de hele wereld. ‘Kunst wordt hier geboren en gaat hier ook weer dood’, vertelt Giacomo. ‘Het is een organische, levende expositie die bloot staat aan weersinvloeden en verval.’ Een kathedraal van bomen. Een oog van hout. Een brug van kranten. Een boom die kan schrijven. Ik ben onder de indruk van deze expositie. Op een schaduwrijk terras mijmer ik onder het genot van een parapampoli – een Trentinoiaanse mix van koffie, wijn en grappa – na over mijn reis door Trentino. Een reis tussen kunst. En koeien.

* Deze blog schreef ik over het ‘adoptieproces’ van Golosa

Dat was wel het laatste waar ik mee thuis dacht te komen

Een koe.
Dit is ‘r:

 

golosa - koe in trentino

 

Ze heet Golosa en is van het Italiaanse ras Pezzata Rossa. Gelukkig mag ze blijven wonen op die groene, sappige alpenwei in de regio Valsugana in de provincie Trentino, Italië waar ik haar voor het eerst ontmoette. Sinds 28 juni 2016 ben ik officieel adoptiemoeder van Golosa. Dit zijn de adoptiepapieren, inclusief een hoeftekening (zampa sinistra, linkerpoot) van haar:

 

paspoort koe golosa trentino

 

Ze woont op Malga Fratte (boerderij Fratte) in Altopiano del Venneza, samen met een stuk of honderd andere koeien, geiten, paarden, ezels, varkens, kippen, honden en katten.

Dit zijn de boer en boerin:

 

  

 

Ze maken van de melk allerlei zuivelproducten en die verkopen ze in hun mini-winkeltje.  Naast kaas en ricotta maken ze hier een overheerlijke Vezzenakaas, die we uitgebreid mochten proeven.

Adotta una mucca

Malga Fratte is een van de 12 boerderijen in Valsugana, Trentino die meedoet aan het project Adopteer een Koe, oftewel Adotta una mucca. Met deze actie, 12 jaar geleden gestart, genereren de boeren een beter inkomen, want echt breed hebben ze het hier niet. Ander doel van het project is ‘buitenlui’ kennis te laten maken met het boerenleven. Bovendien hebben de dieren een goed leven en zie, ruik en voel je waar je eten vandaan komt. En dat is vandaag de dag een groot goed, met al die voedselschandalen van de laatste tijd.

Bruine pannenkoeken

Natuurlijk wilde ik wel even persoonlijk kennismaken met Golosa. ‘Zoek haar maar op’, lachte de boer (hij had geen kiespijn). En dus begeef ik me op de alpenweide, de grote bruine pannenkoeken omzeilend, met de pasfoto van mijn koe in de hand, op zoek naar Golosa. De dames liggen gezellig in kleine groepjes te herkauwen. Het is een heerlijk geluid, dat gekauw en gesnuif. Ze vinden het totaal niet storend dat ik even langs kom.

 

koeien in trentino

 

Maar hoe ik ook zoek, kijk en vergelijk: geen Golosa. Terwijl mijn reisgenoten hun koe al gevonden hebben en selfies met hun nieuwe aanwinst aan het maken zijn, kijk ik nog een keer vertwijfeld om me heen. Ligt ze daar dan? Het laatste groepje koeien. Ik klim het heuveltje op waar de dames zich geposteerd hebben. Dáár is ze! Ik check het nog een keer met de pasfoto maar er is geen twijfel mogelijk: dit is Golosa. Mijn koe.Wat is ze mooi! Ik maak een paar foto’s van haar, geef een aai over haar neus, bewonder haar serene rust en uitstraling en neem afscheid van haar. Ciao Golosa!

1 koe: 60 euro

Golosa (en ook de andere adoptiekoeien) kost zestig euro in het jaar. Tien euro gaat naar het goede doel, vijftig euro naar de boer. Die kan daar dan weer lekkere zuiveldingetjes van maken. En het mooie is: als je binnen het jaar bij je adoptiekoe langsgaat, krijg ik in het mini-winkeltje van de boer voor 50 euro’s aan lekkere kaas, melk en andere zuivel mee. Heerlijk toch?

 

 

 

Adopteer een koe: www.visitvalsugana.it/adottaunamucca

 

 

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